{"id":14316,"date":"2019-11-28T05:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-11-28T04:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mzone.cz\/?p=14316"},"modified":"2019-11-22T12:24:54","modified_gmt":"2019-11-22T11:24:54","slug":"z-deniku-richarda-gaspi-gasperottiho-zam-8-aneb-bikovani-v-murmansku-za-polarnim-kruhem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mzone.cz\/en\/z-deniku-richarda-gaspi-gasperottiho-zam-8-aneb-bikovani-v-murmansku-za-polarnim-kruhem\/","title":{"rendered":"Z den\u00edku Richarda “Gaspi” Gasperottiho: ZAM 8 aneb bikov\u00e1n\u00ed v Murmansku za pol\u00e1rn\u00edm kruhem"},"content":{"rendered":"

ZAM je projekt \u010desk\u00e9ho cyklisty Richarda \u201eGaspi\u201d Gasperottiho, kter\u00fd hled\u00e1 bikov\u00e9 komunity na exotick\u00fdch m\u00edstech po cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b. Po Mongolsku, \u00c1zerb\u00e1jd\u017e\u00e1nu, Tchaj-wanu \u010di Nov\u00e9m Mexiku se letos vydal na rusk\u00fd poloostrov Kola vysoko za pol\u00e1rn\u00edm kruhem. Na\u0161el, co hledal?<\/strong><\/p>
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N\u011bkter\u00e9 v\u011bci se zdaj\u00ed dlouh\u00e9. T\u0159eba cesta do Brna. Nebo do Polska.\u00a0Tohle bylo do Polska, do Litvy, do Loty\u0161ska, do Petrohradu a pak je\u0161t\u011b\u00a01300 kilometr\u016f. To v\u0161echno ve \u010dty\u0159ech lidech jedn\u00edm autem se dv\u011bma\u00a0koly na st\u0159e\u0161e. Silnice E105 nen\u00ed d\u00e1lnice, ale po\u0159\u00e1d let\u00edme p\u0159es kilo. Za\u00a0okny se nic moc ned\u011bje. Po\u0159\u00e1d sam\u00fd les, jen hust\u00e9 stromov\u00ed tajgy\u00a0pomalu krsne a \u0159\u00eddne, a\u017e je ztoho tundra s vypelichan\u00fdmi borovicemi\u00a0a zmu\u010den\u00fdmi b\u0159\u00edzkami. Nade v\u0161e dob\u0159e se tu da\u0159\u00ed kom\u00e1r\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1s\u00a0obkl\u00ed\u010d\u00ed hned, jak vystr\u010d\u00edme nohu z auta. Bzu\u010d\u00edme jako oni, proto\u017ee\u00a0stav\u00edme jen na pump\u00e1ch, kde krom\u011b paliva tankujeme siln\u00e9 rusk\u00e9\u00a0espresso. Maj\u00ed ho v\u0161ude a je super. Klimbnut\u00ed ze tmy stejn\u011b nehroz\u00ed,\u00a0proto\u017ee je pol\u00e1rn\u00ed l\u00e9to. Trochu se se\u0161e\u0159\u00ed, a je zase sv\u011btlo.<\/p>
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Zhlavn\u00ed cesty odbo\u010dujeme na Kirovsk, odkud je n\u00e1stup do poho\u0159\u00ed\u00a0Chibiny. M\u011bsto pojmenovali podle Sergeje Mironovi\u010de Kirova, jeho\u017e\u00a0vra\u017eda v roce 1934 v Rusku rozpoutala stalinistick\u00e9 \u010distky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e1lada ve\u00a0m\u011bst\u011b je ponur\u00e1 i dnes. Nad horami, co nejsou hory, ale v\u00fdsypky z t\u011b\u017eby apatitu, vis\u00ed mraky, kter\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u010dou nad zni\u010denou zem\u00ed.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Z jezera Bol\u0161oj\u00a0Vudjavr stoupaj\u00ed panel\u00e1ky snoub\u00edc\u00ed se s pr\u016fmyslov\u00fdmi budovami.\u00a0Zat\u00edmco hladinu jezera \u010de\u0159\u00ed proud tmav\u00e9 tekutiny pr\u00fd\u0161t\u00edc\u00ed z ob\u0159\u00ed roury,\u00a0p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edme, koho m\u00e1 asi odradit cedule s p\u0159e\u0161krtnut\u00fdm plavcem. Na\u0161e\u00a0odhodl\u00e1n\u00ed vydat se do hor \u0159ed\u00ed i zji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, \u017ee kousek za m\u011bstem v letech\u00a01972 a\u017e 1984 prob\u00edhaly zku\u0161ebn\u00ed jadern\u00e9 v\u00fdbuchy za \u00fa\u010delem zefektivnit\u00a0t\u011b\u017ebu apatitu. D\u00e9\u0161\u0165 padaj\u00edc\u00ed na na\u0161e hlavy rozpou\u0161t\u00ed posledn\u00ed vyhl\u00eddky\u00a0na cestu do hloubi Chibin. Ot\u00e1\u010d\u00edme mercedesku a svi\u0161t\u00edme do\u00a0Murmanska.<\/p>
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Zat\u00edmco Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017e m\u00e1 na turistick\u00fdch pr\u016fvodc\u00edch Eiffelovku, Notre-Dame\u00a0nebo Sacr\u00e9-C\u0153ur, Murmansk l\u00e1k\u00e1 na panel\u00e1ky. Nic jin\u00e9ho tady nen\u00ed.\u00a0Murmansk je nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed m\u011bsto za pol\u00e1rn\u00edm kruhem s v\u00edce jak t\u0159emi sty\u00a0tis\u00edci obyvateli. Od rozpadu Sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho svazu, ukon\u010den\u00ed v\u00fdhod\u00a0plynouc\u00edch z pl\u00e1nov\u00e1n\u00e9ho hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed a krachu centr\u00e1ln\u00edho vyt\u00e1p\u011bn\u00ed\u00a0se zdej\u0161\u00ed populace dlouhodob\u011b zten\u010duje a up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b se nen\u00ed \u010demu divit.\u00a0Pr\u016fm\u011brn\u00e1 ro\u010dn\u00ed teplota je jen desetinu stupn\u011b nad nulou. Chladn\u00e1 l\u00e9ta\u00a0st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1 relativn\u011b m\u00edrn\u00e1 zima s pr\u016fm\u011brnou teplotou m\u00ednus dev\u011bt. Oblast\u00a0zah\u0159\u00edv\u00e1 Golfsk\u00fd proud, d\u00edky n\u011bmu\u017e p\u0159\u00edstav nezamrz\u00e1.<\/p>
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Z hory ho sleduj\u00ed\u00a0strnul\u00e9 o\u010di p\u011btat\u0159icetimetrov\u00e9ho voj\u00e1ka Aljo\u0161i vzty\u010den\u00e9ho na pam\u00e1tku\u00a0obr\u00e1nc\u016f m\u011bsta za velk\u00e9 ob\u010dansk\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. V p\u0159\u00edstavu je mo\u017en\u00e9 nav\u0161t\u00edvit\u00a0jadern\u00fd ledoborec Lenin, kter\u00fd krom\u011b \u00factyhodn\u00fdch schopnost\u00ed l\u00e1mat led,\u00a0proslul dv\u011bma hav\u00e1riemi spojen\u00fdmi s \u00fanikem radiaoaktivn\u00edch l\u00e1tek.<\/p>
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Mobiln\u00ed aplikace n\u00e1m ukazuj\u00ed cestu mezi s\u00eddli\u0161ti a\u017e k hotelu Severn\u00ed\u00a0hv\u011bzda. Po dvou noc\u00edch v aut\u011b si na l\u016f\u017eku p\u0159ijdeme jak v Hiltonu.\u00a0R\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017e\u00edme po stop\u00e1ch m\u00edstn\u00edch biker\u016f. Google Maps n\u00e1s vedou do\u00a0bikeshopu a hned slav\u00edme \u00fasp\u011bch. Mlad\u00fd servisman \u017d\u00e9\u0148a Mamonov je\u00a0sjezda\u0159. \u201eDa, jezd\u00edme tu,\u201d \u0159\u00edk\u00e1. Trochu se styd\u00ed, ale je ochotn\u00fd n\u00e1m dal\u0161\u00ed\u00a0den uk\u00e1zat m\u00edstn\u00ed traily.<\/p>
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Richard \u201cGaspi\u201d Gasperotti: V\u017edycky jsem se cht\u011bl kolem hlavn\u011b bavit<\/a><\/h4>
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\u017d\u00e9\u0148u vyzved\u00e1v\u00e1me v osm ve\u010der po pr\u00e1ci.\u00a0Vyrazit na kopec ve\u010der nen\u00ed nic divn\u00e9ho, proto\u017ee slunce tady nezapad\u00e1.\u00a0S \u017denjov\u00fdmi kamar\u00e1dy Iljou, Sergejem a Nikitou jezd\u00edme na trailu Jews\u00a0a\u017e do p\u016flnoci. Mrhol\u00ed a fouk\u00e1. K romantick\u00e9 p\u0159edstav\u011b o pol\u00e1rn\u00edm l\u00e9tu to\u00a0m\u00e1 ale daleko, a tak obl\u00e9k\u00e1m kulicha, \u0161\u00e1lu a snowboardovou bundu.\u00a0Gaspi jezd\u00ed v zimn\u00edm oble\u010den\u00ed, ale m\u00edst\u0148\u00e1ci jsou drs\u0148\u00e1ci, postupn\u011b\u00a0odkl\u00e1daj\u00ed svr\u0161ky a jezd\u00ed bez rukavic.<\/p>
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Maj\u00ed p\u011bkn\u00e9 biky z\u00e1padn\u00edch zna\u010dek\u00a0jako Specialized, Kona nebo GT, jen trochu star\u0161\u00ed modely s koly ji\u017e\u00a0neu\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9ho rozm\u011bru 26 palc\u016f.\u00a0Vzhledem k podm\u00ednk\u00e1m a ke skute\u010dnosti, \u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed sez\u00f3na trv\u00e1 \u010dty\u0159i\u00a0m\u011bs\u00edce v roce, je v\u016fbec s podivem, \u017ee to nevzd\u00e1v\u00e1j\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jsou nad\u0161en\u00ed\u00a0a sou\u010dasn\u011b trochu nech\u00e1pou, jak n\u011bkoho napadlo vydat se sem na kola\u00a0a\u017e z Evropy, kde je v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed teplo a m\u00e9n\u011b kom\u00e1r\u016f.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Vd\u011b\u010dn\u011b si od n\u00e1s berou\u00a0samolepky sponzor\u016f i plechovky redbull\u016f. \u201eDej je\u0161t\u011b jeden, pa\u017ealsta, tu\u00a0d\u00e1m br\u00e1chovi,\u201d \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Ilja. Druh\u00fd den n\u00e1s se Sergejem bere na tra\u0165 Ogni,\u00a0kterou m\u00e1 na sv\u011bdom\u00ed biker a stavitel Dimitrij Kapitan\u010duk. Je hrav\u00e1,\u00a0nelehk\u00e1 a dob\u0159e promy\u0161len\u00e1. Po je\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed se trochu oklepeme a vyd\u00e1me\u00a0se za na\u0161\u00edm dal\u0161\u00edm c\u00edlem – Teriberkou u Barentsova mo\u0159e.<\/p>
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Teplota bl\u00edzko nuly a sever\u00e1k<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Te\u010f se bl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme k opravodov\u00e9mu severu. Slunce v\u017edy jen na chv\u00edli\u00a0klimbne, aby zas vysko\u010dilo a rozjelo svou sv\u011btelnou show. Kdy\u017e\u00a0nemus\u00edme, nevych\u00e1z\u00edme. Dve\u0159e od auta neotv\u00edr\u00e1me. Fouf\u00e1 a vzduchem se nese p\u0159eh\u00e1\u0148ka, kter\u00e1 si najde cestu v\u0161ude, tak\u017ee u\u017e ani nev\u00edte, jestli\u00a0bre\u010d\u00edte zimou nebo v\u00e1m jen po tv\u00e1\u0159i st\u00e9k\u00e1 d\u00e9\u0161\u0165. Silnice se d\u00e1vno\u00a0zm\u011bnila v \u0161otolinu, po kter\u00e9 let\u00edme jak po poli, zat\u00edmco n\u00e1m od kol\u00a0ost\u0159ikuje bl\u00e1tiv\u00e1 voda z kalu\u017e\u00ed.\u00a0Krajina, postr\u00e1daj\u00edc\u00ed stromy i ve\u0161ker\u00fd porost, kter\u00fd by se odv\u00e1\u017eil \u010delit\u00a0prudk\u00e9mu sever\u00e1ku, se barv\u00ed do odst\u00edn\u016f zelen\u00e9 a \u0161ediv\u00e9 podle mech\u016f a li\u0161ejn\u00edk\u016f obr\u016fstaj\u00edc\u00edch bludn\u00e9 kameny, zanechan\u00e9 zde starod\u00e1vnou\u00a0mur\u00e9nou po ledovci, kter\u00fd rozt\u00e1l po skon\u010den\u00ed posledn\u00ed doby ledov\u00e9. N\u00e1m,\u00a0rozmazlen\u00fdm frack\u016fm ze st\u0159edn\u00ed Evropy p\u0159esto p\u0159ipad\u00e1, jako kdyby tu\u00a0zimn\u00ed kr\u00e1lovna vl\u00e1dla d\u00e1l.<\/p>
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Bez ohledu na to, \u017ee je \u010dervenec, teplom\u011br jen neochotn\u011b stoup\u00e1 nad bod mrazu.\u00a0\u017de jedeme spr\u00e1vn\u00fdm sm\u011brem, nazna\u010duje cedule s n\u00e1pisem Teriberka v\u00a0azbuce. Gaspi se fot\u00ed u n\u00ed, na\u0161e Vito s Gaspiho bikem na st\u0159e\u0161e si zas\u00a0fot\u00ed chl\u00e1pek z proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bj\u00edc\u00edho gaziku. Ne, \u017ee by kolo nikdy nevid\u011bl, ale\u00a0nen\u00ed moc zvykem vyr\u00e1\u017eet s n\u00edm sem do zem\u011b vichru a skal.<\/p>
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Kamenit\u00e1\u00a0cesta se m\u00edrn\u011b sva\u017euje a za dal\u0161\u00ed zat\u00e1\u010dkou u\u017e vid\u00edme mo\u0159e. Zat\u00edmco\u00a0ocelov\u00e1, vzdouvaj\u00edc\u00ed se masa \u00fato\u010d\u00ed na sk\u00e1ly u pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed, Teriberka se kr\u010d\u00ed\u00a0v z\u00e1v\u011bt\u0159\u00ed a \u017eije sv\u00fdm vlastn\u00edm \u017eivotem. Ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko na b\u0159ehu Barentsova mo\u0159e proslavil film Leviatan,\u00a0kter\u00fd z\u00edskal ocen\u011bn\u00ed Zlat\u00fd Gl\u00f3bus.\u00a0Betonov\u00e9 s\u00eddli\u0161t\u011b, obl\u00e9 fjordy, rozpadaj\u00edc\u00ed se lod\u011b uv\u00edzl\u00e9 na m\u011bl\u010din\u011b,\u00a0domy bez oken a bur\u00e1cen\u00ed mo\u0159e tvo\u0159\u00ed dokonalou fimovou kulisu. Jen\u017ee\u00a0tohle nen\u00ed kulisa. Kdysi tu fungovaly dv\u011b norsk\u00e9 tov\u00e1rny na zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed\u00a0ryb. Sov\u011bti postavili \u0161koly, nemocnici, h\u0159i\u0161t\u011b, prodejny i \u00fa\u0159ady a z\u0159\u00eddili tu\u00a0chovnou stanici nork\u016f a sob\u016f. V rozkv\u011btu zde \u017eilo 5000 obyvatel, ale pak p\u0159i\u0161el \u00fapadek. V\u00fdkonn\u00e9 lod\u011b umo\u017enily lov i na oce\u00e1nu a pob\u0159e\u017en\u00ed\u00a0ryba\u0159en\u00ed skon\u010dilo. Sou\u010dasn\u00e9 m\u011bste\u010dko je ji\u017e jen smutnou vzpom\u00ednkou na za\u0161lou sl\u00e1vu, kterou hudebn\u011b doprov\u00e1z\u00ed meluz\u00edna proh\u00e1n\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed se v\u00a0polorozpadl\u00fdch staven\u00edch s vytlu\u010den\u00fdmi okny.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V baru Normann se pt\u00e1me na k\u00e1vu, ale k\u00e1va nen\u00ed, proto\u017ee t\u0159et\u00ed den\u00a0v kuse nejde proud. Pivo taky nen\u00ed.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Gar\u00e1\u017e opod\u00e1l si za sv\u00e9 \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b\u00a0vybrali mal\u00ed\u0159ky, kter\u00e9 za nostalgick\u00fdm kouzlem Teriberky p\u0159ilet\u011bly a\u017e z\u00a0Moskvy. V nepromokav\u00fdch bund\u00e1ch, \u010depic\u00edch a v holink\u00e1ch vyr\u00e1\u017eej\u00ed s\u00a0mal\u00ed\u0159sk\u00fdmi stojany na proch\u00e1zky a bez ohledu na ob\u010dasn\u00fd d\u00e9\u0161\u0165\u00a0zachycuj\u00ed na pl\u00e1tna temnou romantiku zdej\u0161\u00edch fjord\u016f.<\/p>
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Gaspi vytahuje\u00a0sv\u00e9 freerideov\u00e9 kolo a vyd\u00e1v\u00e1 se na obhl\u00eddku okol\u00ed. Mnoho trail\u016f tu nen\u00ed\u00a0a ur\u010dit\u011b tu nikdo ne\u010dek\u00e1 na \u010dlov\u011bka, kter\u00fd by si cht\u011bl sklouznout z\u00a0n\u011bjak\u00e9ho kope\u010dku.<\/p>
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Na video z expedice ZAM 8 se m\u016f\u017eete pod\u00edvat zde:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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